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Meals
One in all my favorite eating places is Villa Spiza, which is on an alleyway a couple of minutes’ stroll from Unesco-listed Diocletian’s Palace within the outdated city. It’s small and busy – locals find it irresistible! The menu is handwritten each morning to replicate no matter is in season. Relying on the day, you would possibly discover conventional Croatian dishes together with pašticada (slow-cooked beef in purple wine with gnocchi) or brujet (fish stew) – the grilled fish and shellfish dishes are all the time scrumptious.
For nice eating, there’s Dvor, a 20-minute stroll east of the outdated city. The chef is without doubt one of the finest in Croatia. There’s an outside terrace that overlooks Firule seashore, the place you may generally spot folks within the sea taking part in picigin (a sport distinctive to Cut up that entails a staff protecting a small ball out of the water).
We even have the fantastic Pazar inexperienced market, promoting contemporary fruit and greens, cheeses and olive oils. A few of the stallholders have been there for nearly 50 years and they’re such characters.
Inspiration
Now we have fantastic museums within the metropolis. One in all my favourites is the Ethnographic Museum, stuffed with shows displaying how the folks of Cut up lived up to now, with all the pieces from jewelry to pots. There are gorgeous views from its roof of the Peristil – the central sq. of the palace complicated constructed for Emperor Diocletian on the flip of the fourth century.
We even have the wonderful National Theatre, a good looking neo-baroque constructing relationship from the late nineteenth century, one of many oldest surviving theatres in Dalmatia. The ballet, opera and live shows staged listed here are world class.
Neighbourhood
I dwell in Meje, a quiet a part of Cut up, 20 minutes’ stroll west of the outdated city. It’s near the Ivan Meštrović promenade, named after Croatia’s most prolific sculptor, and is one among my favorite walkways. It traces the western coast of Cut up and provides entry to some lovely pebble seashores – equivalent to Obojena Svjetlost and Kašjuni – the place the water is crystal clear.
Inexperienced areas
On Sundays I prefer to stroll as much as Marjan Hill, a park we name “the lungs of Cut up”. The views from the highest are gorgeous, stretching so far as the islands of Brač and Šolta and even taking in a little bit of Hvar. This can be a standard place for biking, mountaineering and mountaineering, and you may choose up the strolling path to get right here from the western Riva – the seafront promenade .
Simply exterior Cut up, there are strolling trails within the Mosor mountains, referred to as the “Cut up Alps”. It might probably get too sizzling to hike in the summertime, however it’s a well-liked place in autumn and winter, with fantastic views.
In 2021, the new 87-mile Via Brattia walking trail opened on Brač, a 50-minute crossing by ferry from Cut up. This round-island monitor, dubbed the Croatian camino, connects 12 historic and spiritual websites and factors of pure magnificence.
Nightlife
Marcus Marulus, referred to as the daddy of Croatian literature, was born in Cut up, and the gothic palace the place he lived as a baby is now the Marvlvs Library Jazz Bar. Its partitions are lined with bookcases, and it serves Dalmatian drinks from rakia (fruit brandy) to wines equivalent to pošip. For cocktails, there’s Noor, which has an creative menu that features the Spicy Sundown, made with chilli-infused tequila.
The bar at Michelin-starred Kinoteka restaurant has a wonderful wine record. Order a plavac mali, one of the vital important grapes in Dalmatia, and drink it within the fifteenth century courtyard.
The place to remain
Santa Lucia Heritage Hotel (doubles from £90 room-only) on Pjaca, the primary metropolis sq., is in a Seventeenth-century constructing: a latest refurbishment has made it significantly beautiful. Its rooftop bar affords glorious views over the outdated city.
Robyn Vulinovich runs My Hidden Croatia, organising meals, wine, crusing, mountaineering and cultural excursions for small teams in Cut up and wider Dalmatia
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