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An hour after leaving London Blackfriars, the Thameslink practice emerges from a protracted tunnel right into a rural Kentish idyll. As we cross over a Victorian viaduct a bucolic view beckons from the south: a meandering river between wooded chalk hills. Water meadows, poplars and an historic church tower full the scene. It’s like a fleeting glimpse of an image e book exhibiting the Backyard of England. We have now entered the Darent valley, which, regardless of being on London’s doorstep, provides a number of secluded walks – and greater than a few nice pubs.
Shoreham is a hub for a lot of mountain climbing routes, however when the practice pulls in, a well dressed group disembark alongside us, none of them carrying strolling boots. They’re heading into the village for stone-baked pizzas and wine at the Mount Vineyard. The winery group has additionally taken over the Fifteenth-century Ye Olde George inn and, after an intensive and tasteful revamp, reintroduced it to the world in April because the Samuel Palmer.
Within the Nineteenth-century, artist Samuel Palmer was impressed by this North Downs “Valley of Imaginative and prescient”, as he known as it, and moved right into a rundown cottage in Shoreham, the place he produced two of his greatest pastoral work: In a Shoreham Garden and A Cornfield by Moonlight, each in watercolours.
Palmer was “rediscovered” within the Nineteen Fifties, regardless of lots of his work having been burned in 1909 by his son Alfred, who didn’t suppose anybody may make sense of it. This looks like an odd choice: the reproductions within the pub communicate of Palmer’s love of rural life and its colors, moods and mystique. They’re stunning and extremely romanticised, influenced by William Blake, JMW Turner and Palmer’s personal social circle, the Ancients. Based on the Oxford Dictionary of Artwork, the work are “charged with a way of pantheistic fecundity”. No matter meaning.
Because the vineyard-bound group head off, my spouse and I sort out the trail nearly reverse the station, main up the japanese aspect of the Darent valley. We quickly cross an indication warning canine walkers of adder strikes. Having taken this route a number of occasions earlier than, I recall coming throughout a whole snake pores and skin on the monitor, and an encounter with a not-so-slowworm at this level. However on the entire it is a stroll the place animals have loads of cowl and the one signal that one is shut is a rustling within the leaf litter as you strategy. After passing beneath a tangle of beech, sycamore, yew and ash, the slope will get so steep that steps – about 140 of them – have been lower into the hillside, and our early dialog is changed by panting. We’re heading north-east at first, to a secluded hamlet and dry valley, earlier than turning south to Fackenden Down, crossing the Darent valley and returning to Shoreham by way of its western ridge. At a number of factors there are alternatives to take brief cuts, most of which contain paths simply as fascinating because the route we’ve got chosen.
A buzzard flops out of larch timber at Preston Hill as we go away the woods and head into the secluded dry valley. On the hamlet of Higher Austin Lodge, we stroll south, taking a detour up a barely overgrown path to go to the Percy Pilcher memorial. Pilcher was a late-Nineteenth-century pioneer of aeronautics who may need crushed the Wright brothers to powered flight had he not died in a crash in 1899. He flew hang-gliders over these hills, assisted by his sister Ella and cousin Dorothy, who’re believed to be the UK’s first feminine hang-gliders.
The memorial is a beautiful spot, surrounded by shrubs and scrub alive with birdsong. It overlooks what was as soon as a part of a golf course, though you’ll by no means guess, given how rapidly the land has rewilded.
More moderen aviation historical past involves the fore as two Spitfires growl overhead – a reminder of the Battle of Britain, which was fought nearly day by day in these skies in the summertime of 1940. The outdated planes are actually used for joyrides from Biggin Hill, a couple of miles to the west.
We proceed southwards excessive on the east aspect of this secret-feeling valley, having fun with ever extra spectacular views to the west and to the north so far as Essex. After a mile or so the route descends to Magpie Backside nature reserve, a web site of nice chalk-downlands biodiversity. A cluster of rare-breed cattle stare upon us in a barely unnerving method. We flip west, getting into an eerie beech wooden with indicators of historic flint and chalk workings. Someplace right here is proof of a centuries-old smugglers’ pub, the Pig & Whistle. The world was used as a staging submit for contraband (tea, tobacco, and so on) from mainland Europe, utilizing outdated deneholes (medieval chalk mines) as hiding locations. They have been even recognized to have kidnapped a customs official investigating the – presumably unlicensed – pub.
After becoming a member of quiet Rowdow Lane for 200 metres, we take a footpath to Fackenden Down, the place the fauna and flora are taken care of by the Kent Wildlife Trust. Right here a wide-angle view opens as much as south and west so far as Westerham. The clock tower of Knole, in Sevenoaks, may be made out to the north because the chalk downs give method to the sandstone Weald of Kent. Oasthouses pop up behind woods and hedgerows as one other Spitfire turns above us – this feels nearly like Kent as a theme park. Buzzards and a purple kite float on the escarpment thermals.
We plunge down the hill, recognizing a tiny lizard dozing within the solar, then head throughout the Darent valley, aiming for Water Lane and the western ridge. After a pedestrian railway crossing, we cross Outdated Mill Home, the place the Darent splashes into a big decorative pond, then stroll alongside a tranquil stream lined with rushes and reeds.
The Sixteenth-century clay-tile and brick Kennel Cottage marks the beginning of Water Lane. After crossing Filston Lane, we climb up the western hillside, admiring the patchwork of fields and woods beneath and the view alongside the escarpment in direction of Maidstone after which the beeches and candy chestnuts of Meenfield Wooden. Flip left and we’d attain Polhill Bank, one other Kent Wildlife Belief reserve, however we’re desirous about the pub now, so head north on a large path, conscious of the distant M25. As quickly as we drop down in direction of Mill Lane, the site visitors noise vanishes and we’re again within the village, gawping at riverside cottages, shocked by the sheer pantheistic fecundity of all of it.
Google map of the route
Begin Shoreham railway station
Finish Samuel Palmer pub
Distance 9.5 miles
Time 4.5 hours
Whole ascent 414 metres
Problem Average
GPX track of the route
The pub
There are three effective historic boozers in Shoreham, so it’s a superb place for a pub crawl. The cosy Kings Arms reopened in August after a hearth, and the Crown is a pleasant port of name on the village’s west aspect. However the refurbished Samuel Palmer is spectacular: all stone, wooden, brick, glass and artwork, with Fifteenth-century beams now uncovered.
Proprietor Simon Greenwood tells me Palmer himself had painted a picture on one wall however this was misplaced in a earlier revamp. He says the pub’s mission is to supply high-quality however reasonably priced eating with out pretensions. I’d say they’ve nailed it. The bar menu consists of cheese platters and sandwiches, whereas the à la carte menu (£35 for 3 programs) options creations equivalent to baked cod with mussels, mash, leek confit and heat tartare sauce – in all probability the very best factor I’ve ever eaten in a pub.
A pint of Westerham’s Spirit of Kent hits the mark as we ponder a waddle to the winery to admire the vines, now wearing autumnal reds and yellow. I later discover out from Geoff Nutkins, one other artist, who runs the bijou however good Shoreham Aircraft Museum, that the pub hosted two very shaken shot-down German airman in September 1940. “You want a pint mate,” the Residence Guard officer instructed the pilot. I someway doubt hagenta plum frangipane tart was laid on although.
thesamuelpalmer.com
The place to remain
Darent Hulme Barn B&B is splendidly positioned for this route – proper by the trail as you allow Meenfield Wooden and a beautiful half-mile riverside stroll again from one of many pubs or the winery. Proprietor Sophie Marsh has created clear and easy interiors with a palette impressed by the close by Fortress Farm lavender fields, and serves continental breakfast. “We get lots of walkers and guests to the winery,” she tells me. Canines, nevertheless, will not be accepted.
Doubles from £130 B&B, darenthulme.co.uk
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